We transitioned from the hectic city of Madurai to the very peaceful Periyar National Park. Set in the Western Ghats mountain range, the park covers 777km2 and is home to over 2000 elephants and 48 tigers. At the centre is a rather controvesial artificial lake, formed to provide water to the Tamil Nadu region.

We set off on a 3 day trek with 2 nights of camping in the forest in search of wildlife. The forest department runs the tiger trail. It takes ex poachers and retrains them as guides to offer them alternative employment. There are guards every 10km through the park to protect it from poachers. Poachers are actually primarily after precious woods and plants used in ayurvedic medicine rather than animals.

We had to put on leech socks and tuck in our tops to prevent these creepy creatures from latching on. I was very thankful to have the socks because within a few minutes of walking they were on our shoes and trying to make their way up our legs. However the forest was beautiful and we managed to spot some Sambar deer in the trees.

We reached the boat launch point and hopped on a bamboo raft to reach the other side of the lake. The majority of our trek was through the border zone between the mountainous grasslands and the thick rainforest. We spotted some monkeys and a grizzled squirrel.

Another bamboo raft took us across another branch of the lake to our camping spot. It was a pretty sweet set up with an elephant pit dug around the perimeter for protection.

An afternoon walk took us up one of the branches of the lake but there was not a lot of wildlife. The guides pointed out elephant tracks a couple of days old.

We were very well fed with food expertly cooked over a campfire.

The next day we woke up to a clearer morning and climbed up to the top of the hill in the grasslands. We spotted a couple of herds of bison and some lone wild boars but no elephants.

An afternoon was spent relaxing at the campsite watching kite birds circling overhead.

Another raft trip took us across to the thicker forest. Here we saw some grey horn bill birds. The guides kept us entertained with stories. One of the guides was once walking with a couple of tourist when they were chased down by a leopard in a field. With only a stick to protect himself he survived but had some serious head wounds. One of the tourists ran away and the other was just really excited to see a leopard even though it put the guide in the hospital. Another was talking about how his uncle was killed but a lone elephant. Apparently sloth bears and lone elephants are the biggest dangers in the park. Thankfully we did not come across either of these.

From our spot on the lake we looked over at the thicker rainforest which the guides said they can’t take tourists through.

Our last morning was spent walking back to the park entrance. Although we were disappointed to not see any elephants or tigers, we had a great time trekking. The forest was beautiful and it was a great organisation to support.

From Thekkady, we travelled the Alleppy which is on the coast of Kerala. We stayed at a gorgeous Air BnB right on the beach. Had a great time swimming and relaxing.

The temples in the town were having a festival so in the evening the streets were full of vendors and the temples were lit up.

We then spent two nights cruising on a deluxe houseboat through the backwaters of Kerala. Known as the Venice of the South, we motored slowly through palm tree lined canals, looking out over rice paddy fields and observing village life. We had a personal chef who cooked up some delicious prawns, fresh spiced fish and vege thalis. We were very well fed and spent the majority of the day lounging at the front of the boat watching the scenery and reading our books.

Our next and final stop was the city of Kochi. The city has some great cafes and boutique shopping.

We enjoyed a morning at a cooking class learning the methodology of how to combine the base ingredients in an Indian curry and learning about the cuisine in more detail. We cooked up a delcious Keralan fish curry, garam masala chicken, lemon rice and unniyappam.

From Kochi we flew back home via Singapore just in time for Christmas.

One last food montage.

Words and images fail to capture the full sensory experience of a place like India. The mass of humanity, bright colours, interesting smells and loud sounds coming at you from all angles . It has to be experienced to be understood. In a short walk you will see the heartbreaking sight of someone sleeping on the street with a missing limb, a bunch of cows crossing the road and women expertly carrying things on their head or riding side saddle in their saris on the back of a bike. I have visited the quiet cities and still found the traffic to be insane with cars, rickshaws, motorbikes, pushbikes and pedestrians all weaving their way through one another. I have been asked to have countless selfies with people and am getting used to being stared and pointed at in public places. I am sure it is mostly friendly curiosity but I am often left feeling like part celebrity part zoo animal. Despite all this I love India. The culture is rich and the people are welcoming. There is still so much of India country I have not experienced. I am sure I will go back.

Rest in peace Poppa. Your stories instilled in me a curiosity and drive to get out and explore the world. You had an extraordinary impact on who I am today. I will do my best to keep up with writing my “letters”. I am sad that you didn’t get to hear this one. Love you.

Another bus took me to the city of  Coimbatore.  There were some hairpin corners so tight the bus had to reverse to make it around. I was adopted by a friendly group of women who shared their biscuits and chai with me and made sure I got in my taxi safely once we had arrived in the city.

I have been asked numerous times by locals why I am going to Coimbatore. It is not a tourist hotspot but it was where the main event of my trip took place, Suji and Arun’s marriage.

But first I met Ella at the airport and we travelled up to the nearby town of Kotagiri. We had a relaxing stay in a cute Air BnB on a tea plantation up in the hills. The owner said he had lost 14 puppies to the leopards in the area! I found the drop down in temperature at night to 15°C a bit of a shock to the system.

We journeyed back to Coimbatore and to join the other guests gathering for the upcoming festivities. A few of us went out to the Adiyoga Shiva statue. Sitting at 112ft tall, this bust statue really dominated the landscape. Onsite is also the Dhyanalinga yoga and meditation centre. It was an impressive modern temple complex. Since it is a place of worship I have no photos from inside the centre. There was a large pool area with big stone steps leading down to the water. It looked like where men were being initiated. They were standing under a waterfall and holding gold domes in the water. There were more areas of worship and the main Dhyanalinga dome. We sat in the dome shaped meditation space in meditative silence for 15min.

We also visited the Marudhamalai temple up on the hillside with views back over Coimbatore.

Having invited herself to the wedding, Tarsh arrived in the early hours of Monday morning. We made a couple of trips out to Brookefields mall to get some last minute items. We were invited to three days of wedding festivites which required three different outfits. My understanding is there are many more pre and post wedding rituals.

Day 1 of the marriage was a Sangeet function which was a night of music, games, dance and partying. We learnt a dance very last minute to perform (thank you for your excellent tutoring Shibani). I am sure videos will surface at some point as there was a comprehensive camera crew covering the entire wedding. When we went up for our dance, the host awkwardly tried to engage in some banter but the language barrier made this rather uncomfortable.

Some highlights were Arun’s Dad’s dance, the bride and grooms dance and the after party. We danced late into the night to a mix of western songs and some Tamil club tracks.

Day 2 was a reception in the evening. There was a small grooms parade from the temple to the reception area. The evening is mainly a photo opportunity. I felt sympathy for the bride and groom having to sit on stage smiling for photos for so long. Turns out the professional photographers took of 15,000 photos of the wedding.

Day 3, the wedding ceremony took place in the morning. We were up in time to attempt to drape our saris. Luckily I watched how Tarsh was dressed by an aunty the previous day so was able to help us arrive looking presentable. I thought we did a pretty good job but were all redressed by helpful relatives at some point during the ceremony.

At the start Arun was onstage with the priest conducting a number of small rituals. I observed tumeric paste being rubbed on his forehead, water sprinkling and flower scattering. One of the traditions is for the groom to leave, pretend he does not want to get married and an Uncle convinces him to return.

Arun was then joined by Suji on stage. Their hands were tied together with a cloth. Arun tied a necklace around Suji’s neck. Suji also treaded on a grind stone and rings were placed on her second toe of each foot.

Since we were unsure which of the rituals signified their union we were guided by the music the band played and the emotions of everyone onstage. At one point we got to throw rice to signify blessings for the happy couple.

Arun and Suji were then lifted up onto the shoulders of their families and had a friendly fight exchanging flower garlands. I reckon Suji won the upperhand. They were then taken outside to view an auspicious star which will bless their marriage. We joined them onstage to congratulate them and get a few photos.

Happy married life Suji and Arun! Thank you for inviting us to be a part of this very special celebration. I wish you all the best for this next chapter in your lives together.

From Coimbatore Tarsh and I travelled to Madurai, also known as the temple city. Ancient documents record Madurais existence from 3rd century BC and is amongst the oldest inhabited cities in the world. There is evidence of readings with ancient Rome. The city centres around the main temple Meenakshi Amman. It was a bit of a process getting into the temple complex but once inside it was very impressive. The outer walls have four tall towers (North to South). The interior is maze like with stone carvings, mandalas painted on the ceiling and lots of ghee candles burning.

In 1840 the British East India Trading company raised the Madurai fort and filled in it’s moat. The people of the city helped take apart the palace with the promise that the land could be claimed by those who cleared it. We visited the impressive remains of the palace, a blend of Dravidian and Islamic architecture styles.

In the evening we went on a street food walking tour. We got to try some really delicious and unique foods.

Our guide also pointed out the remains of the fort through the bazaars of the city. A street with old pillars and a bazar stepped down in the remains of the old moat.

We also visited the Ghandi Memorial museum. It was very humbling to see the blood stained loin cloth that he as wearing when he was assassinated.

And some more food snaps.

From Madurai we travelled to Thekkady to go trekking in Periyar National Park in search of tigers!

My first stop in India was the city of Mumbai. I stayed at a hostel in the hip Bandra district which is more suburban. I wandered the streets feeling hugged by the warm and humid air, taking in the sensory experience which is India. Lots of different spices, lush jungle trees, flocks of squawking crows, honking scooters, bumbling rickshaws and street food vendors. I enjoyed a delicious dosa for my first meal. I walked along the promenade on sunset and went to a nearby yoga studio.

The next day, a group of us from the hostel set out to see the Kanhari caves in Sanjay Ghandi national park. It was quite an experience making our way onto the packed out trains. The doors do not close so people are just hanging out the side of the carriages. When the train stops, everyone tries to simultaneously push their way onto and make their way off the already overfull train.

The national park was beautiful with big leafed tropical trees, plenty of squirrels, monkeys and flocks of crows. We hired bikes and cycled up to the caves (quite an achievement given how hot and humid it was).

The caves were established by Buddhist monks as part of a monastic university complex. It is made up of 109 different dwellings for the monks to sit in meditation. Some of the caves were very simple and some contained elaborate carvings. The place felt very peaceful despite being asked by a number of people to have a selfie with them.

I also stayed in the Cabra district of Mumbai which was a bit more touristy and “upmarket”. I use quotation marks here because somehow the city can have incredibly nice buildings right next to very shabby ones. I use this quote from the book Shantaram which I am currently reading “That decline and decay, creeping across the face of the grandest designs; that stain of the end, spreading across every bright beginning in Bombay”.

I ticked off the main sites: Taj Mahal palace, gateway to India monument, and walked through the bustling bazaars filled with spices and textiles.

From Mumbai a train took me down to Goa.

I started off in the North at Vagator, a beach with red cliffs and lush jungle. It is very common to see cows on the beach, on the roads and pretty much everywhere you think they shouldn’t be. I made a trip inland to Assagoa for a great yoga class and ayurvedic massage.

I also ventured up at Arambol which was long beach with white sand. At night, there is lots of activity on the beach with a big market and drumming circles.

I then travelled down to South Goa to stay at Patnem beach. I preferred the quieter scene of the south. I stayed at a yoga retreat in a beach bungalow. My days consisted of a 30min meditation, 90 dynamic class, brunch, lots of swims and book reading, 90min slow class before watching the sunset. There was a bunch of amazing teachers and the food was delicious and fresh. It was hard to pull myself away.

After a bumpy journey on a night bus (turns out a sleeper bus in India is an actually bed, not just a reclining seat) I arrived in the town of Hampi, known for its beautiful old temples and palace ruins scattered amongst a unique bouldery landscape. It was the capital of the Hindu Vijayanagara empire during the 14th century and was once the worlds second largest medieval-era city (second to Beijing).

I managed to semi-successfully hire a scooter (had to ask a group of boys how to start the engine) and explored the temples on Virupapur Gaddi side of the Hampi river. The landscape really is unique with large stacks of terracotta boulders filling the green fields. There are plenty of coconut trees, rice paddy fields, herds of cattle and goat, monkeys, peacocks and local people going about daily life.

I climbed up the 570 steps to the Hannuman temple, said to be the birthplace of this monkey god.

A bunch of us from the hostel settled in at a good sunset spot on the rocks by the river. From this vantage point we watched a flock of white birds return to their nesting tree for the night, otters swimming in the river and monkeys along the rivers edge. Amazing pink and orange sky behind the stacks of boulders that is characteristic of the Hampi landscape.

From my accommodation I needed to catch a little boat to get to main centre of Hampi’s old temples and palace ruins.

I spent one day exploring the sacred centre ruins. It felt very Indian Jones esque.

Another day was spent around the royal centre.

From Hampi I took a night train to Mysore. It was a lot more comfortable to sleep on than the bus. Mysore is where ashtanga yoga style originates. I visited the Mysore palace, a silk factory and Karanji Lake. I enjoyed some good yoga classes and more delicious dosas.

To wrap up this post I must mention the food. I have been enjoying dosas, thali, momos, lassi, idlis, paneer curry, fresh juices, masala chai, biriyani, chapathi and pongal. I am not the best at photographing food but here is a small selection of some dishes I have enjoyed thus far.

Arriving in Cusco from La Paz, I was struck by the impressive colonial architecture. Once the capital of the Incan empire, the conquistadors did a good job of taking over. Remnants of Incan architecture can be found through the city and ruin sites scattered through the sacred valley.

After a cheery reunion with Abbey, we naturally went and found a cute beer garden to enjoy a pint or two.

The following morning we caught a collection out to Tambayo ruins, also known as the Incan Baths.

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From here, we continued down the road to Puka Pukara, believed to be a military fortress protecting Cusco or perhaps a resting place for hunters.

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The final stop was Saqsaywamana. The remains are only a small portion of what once existed. Three main terraces and some excellent incan build examples, precisely cut stones that piece together perfectly and don’t need mortar.

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Gorgeous viewpoint back over Cusco city and also over to the mini Cristo Blanco (similar to Rio’s Christ the Redeemer).

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While in Cusco, we enjoyed wandering the neighbourhoods of Cusco, historic centre with the Plaza de Armas, many offerings of massages from street hawkers. One enthusiastic shop owner pulled us in and dressed up in traditional outfits.

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We also visited Qouikancha/Convento De Santo Domingo del Cusco. Once the most important temple in the Incan empire, it is an impressive example cuboid stone wall construction. Apparently the walls were once covered in gold. The Spanish colonists then built a convent on site, partially demolishing the temple and using the foundations for the cathedral. Today, it is an interesting contrast of architecture.

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We signed up for a cooking lesson to learn more about Peruvian cuisine, my favourite in South America. It started with a tour of San Pedro market. The building is designed by the same guy that did the Eiffel tour and acts as a natural fridge. The market is made up of different sections, a whole isle devoted to fresh fruit juices, cheese (very limited variety), bread (all bread is baked in small village out of Cusco, tends to be flatter due to altitude), lots of different fruits and vegetables, impressive variety of potatoes, meat cuts and local “fast food”. August is the month of Pachamama (mother earth) and you could buy packs full of random things and treats to make as an offering. It was interesting learning about the influence immigration has had on Peruvian cuisine with Asian flavours and Creole cuisine.

Started with Maracuya (passionfruit) Pisco sour, a great way to start the day as we had skipped breakfast.

First dish we made was ceviche.

Next, we made a Peruvian yellow chili quinoa rissoto.

For desert, we made Chirimoya (custard apple) parfait.

We continued the day as we started by going Museo del Pisco for a tasting. Pisco is made by distilling wine made from Pisco grapes down to a spirit, similar to brandy but it is not aged. I discovered a new favourite drink, Chilcano (pisco, ginger ale and lime).

We continued up to Limbus bar, set on the hill with spectacular views over the city, great spot to watch the sun go down and the city lights come up.

The following day, feeling a bit dusty, we packed up and moved from the hostel to the hotel our tour started from and organised our trekking gear.

Early morning bus out the the start of the Salkantay trek, becoming a popular alternative to the Inca trail. It does not have the same historic significance but a lot less people and the trail takes you a lot closer to the glaciers.

Day 1 took us up and over the pass at 4630m, close the the Salkantay glacier. The altitude was noticeable to those not acclimatised. We then descended down to our campsite in the valley.

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Day 2 we continued our decent through the cloud forest to campsite at the river.

Day 3, we opted to go soak in some natural hot springs rather than hike another 8hrs. Great decision, they were beautifully set in the valley. We then caught the train to Aguas Caliente and enjoyed a night sleeping in a bed before our early start for the 6am entrance to Machu Picchu.

The much hyped Inca city ruins did not disappoint. The location is stunning. The citadel is built on a narrow ridge between two mountain peaks, Machu Picchu and Wayna Picchu. The tall, sheer granite peaks rise up out of the cloud forest with the Urubamba river weaving along the base of the valley.

We walked up to the sungate for good views back at the city ruins. It was the original entrance and is where the inca trail finishes.

The city is not nearly as old as I thought, built in the 15th Century it was only occupied for around a hundred years before being abandoned. The Spanish conquistadors did not know it existed allowing the ruins to remain relatively intact. They were found (with the help of local inca guides) by a Yale historian. Initially overgrown in thick vegetation, . they began restoration work which is ongoing to this day. Yale university still have a collection of artifacts and are battling with the Peruvian government for custody.

Archaeologists seem to be unsure about the cities significance but it seems to have been a royal estate.

Where you enter the city are the agricultural terraces and you walk down into the residential area. There is a rock quarry, thought to be a natural land slide before the city was built which provided a lot of the stone used for construction.

Bus back down to Aguas Caliente for lunch and then caught the train to Ollantaytambo ( I slept through the gorgeous scenery). From here we caught a bus back to Cusco. At one point we all had to get off the bus and walk across this narrow bridge over a river before hoping back on the bus.

Back in Cusco, we spewed all our belonging across the hotel room floor and prostrated ourselves on the very comfy beds. The next day was spent resting and recuperating, enjoying each others company before starting our respective journeys home.

In a land of contrasts and extremes I went from swimming under the sea to exploring the rainforest to hiking high amongst Andean mountain peaks. South America was welcoming, reactive, a sensory overload, loco, hot & humid, cold & dry, delicious cuisines, basic food, tropical fruits, warming quinoa soup, breathtaking landscapes, heart breaking amounts of rubbish, colourful textiles, incredible biodiversity, barren landscapes and life rich ecosystems. I visited the heart of the world and birth place of the sun, innovative cities, picturesque colonial towns and ancient ruins. I meet some amazing people, survived some crazy driving, learnt some Spanish and grew in confidence.

Time to close the book on this adventure. Adios Sud America.

At an altitude of 3650m the city of La Paz spills down a valley surrounded by snowy Andean peaks. Life flows out onto the steep, cobbled and chaotic streets.

I wandered the markets full of colourful textiles and food stalls of all varities.

I also took myself on a cable car tour of the city. The innovative transport system provided spectacular views across the valley and down onto the daily life of the people who live here. The business district and more affluent neighbourhoods reside in the base of the valley.

La Paz was a great base to organise the two activities I had planned for my time here in Bolivia.

First of these was a three day jeep tour of the Uyuni salt flats and desert scapes of the Southern Antiplano. A night bus took me to the town of Uyuni where the tour kicked off. I was paired with a bunch of friendly Brazilian travellers.

The tour took us to a train graveyard where a bunch of trains were abandoned beside the line which runs out to the ports of Chile. The trains were left here to rust in the harsh conditions next to the salt flats after the decline of the mining industry in the 1940s. It was strange to watch tourists climbing all over the rusty frames to get photos.

From here it was out onto the salt flats. Like nothing I’ve ever seen before, Uyuni is the world’s largest salt flat (12,106 sq km) and sits at 3650m. Formed during the uplift of the Andes, as the climate got drier the lakes evaporated leaving behind the salt flats. Located in a volcanic area, it is estimated to contain approximately 40% of the world’s lithium reserves.

As the name suggests, it is very flat and the bright white expanse extended far into the distance to meet gorgeous blue skies at the horizon.We had lunch in a building made out of salt bricks.

From here, continued our drive along flats stopping for perception photos. I’ll have to find somewhere to upload a funny video we made with some cheerful Brazilian backing music.

Next stop was Isla del Pescado, covered in cactus and sitting in the heart of the salar. I enjoyed watching the other jeeps driving along the salt flat.

We stopped to watch the sunset and felt the temperature drop dramatically. Spent the night in a salt hotel at the edge of the flat (yes I did try lick the wall).

Day 2 took us further into the Southern Altiplano (Spanish for high plain). We drove across moonscapes, past active volcanoes and many colourful lagoons.

It was strange to see flamingos on frozen lakes. I last saw flamingos in the warm climate of the Galapogas.

After a lunch stop we drove across the Siloli dessert, looking out towards the mountains of Chile.

Rock tree, shaped by high winds in the area.Beautifully coloured red lake, I think it got it’s colouring from a species of algae.

Spent the night at a large, airy stone hotel. Bolivia does not seem to believe in insulation (think thin glass windows cellotaped into the frames) Thank god for fireplace in the dining area (Dad you would be horrified by the use of gas heaters indoors). It was even colder here at night, dropping to below -10°C.

Day 3. Up before the sun, wearing all the clothes I have with me and feeling like my toes will never feel warm again.

Stopped off at an area of volcanic thermal activity for day break. Watched the geysers and steam pour out of the ground.

Onto thermal hot pools, no way was I changing into my swimsuit at temperatures still below 0.

We continued on across the Dali Desert. More dramatic land scapes with red Volcanoes and white and green lakes.

Onto the border with Chile, my Bazilian amigos departed for San Pedro de Atacama leaving me with our guide Samuel for the drive back to Uyuni. Quinoa farms, llamas, impressive rock, more moonscapes and long highway.

Night bus back to La Paz and a day to prepare for the trek.

El Choro trek

Duration: 2.5 days

Total distance: 57km

Elevation change: 4885m to 1350m

Day 1. The start of the trek was about an hours drive out of La Paz. From the snowy peaks of the Corderilla mountains, the track follows an old Inca trail decending into semi tropical Yunga forest. I walked with a guide and a fellow solo traveller from Spain, Julia.

After almost loosing my sleeping matt over edge while trying to pack my gear up, we went straight into the decent down a rocky switch back.The landscape quickly changed from snowy peaks to dry tussocks.We followed the base of the valley to the small village of Challapampa. We passed a couple of herds of llamas. The silly pompoms on their ears helps the farmers distinguish which llamas belong in their herd.Our campsite for the night sat at about 2300m. I maybe should’ve gone with slightly more upmarket tour company as our tent didn’t even zip close and my sleeping bag was not warm. Luckily temperatures were above freezing for a change.

There were about 3 other European couples walking the track. Evenings were spent having interesting conversations in a mix of Spanish, French and English.Day 2 was the longest, taking about 8.5hrs and covering 27km. The track was mostly downhill through the lush Yunga forest (a stark contrast to dry mountain peaks of the day before). The good thing about descending so far is the dramatic change in landscapes.Some spectacular views as the trail tracked along the side of the valley. There were a few steep ascents out of river banks to break up the downhill. We started to see more hummingbirds and colourful butterflies.The bridge safety standards in Bolivia leave something to be desired.Arrived at the campsite of Sandillani not long before dark. There were a pair of French girls walking and one of them was really struggling with a knee injury. She had the option of letting the operator of the campsite carry her out, apparently he has to do this often.

I need to write a heart felt apology to my knees for putting them through this much downhill walking. They are still in recovery.

Day 3 was only 7km and took us about 2.5hrs down to the river where we caught a shuttle to the village of Coiroco.At the bus station, which is really just a bunch of vans, a lady was continually yelling out that there was a van going to for La Paz. You need to wait until it is full to depart. One of the crazier car journeys of my life.

Back safely in the city of La Paz, the main streets were closed off for large parades of dancers from the University in colourful bright costumes.

I have one night here before busing up to Cusco to meet with Abbey ❤

After some delayed flights we made it to the city of Arequipa. Plenty of grand colonial buildings made from thick volcanic stones and cobbled streets. Surrounding the city are three large volcanoes, El Misti (5822m), Chachani (6075m) and Pichu Pichu (5571m). As one of the driest places in the world, the contrast with the rainforest we had traveled from was apparent.

We treated ourselves to a delicious dinner owned by one of Peru’s famous chefs.

The main attraction in Arequipa is the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, an impressive citadel within a city. As the second born daughter, if we had been a wealthy family during this period of history I would have been sent to the monastery to become a Nun. We enjoyed wandering the colourful streets and hearing about the lives of the nuns who once lived here.

We also completed the two day trekking trip into the Colca Canyon, one of the world’s deepest canyons at 3191m. As one could expect, hiking a canyon involves a lot of down hill followed by a lot of uphill (~1200m elevation change). It’s a bit of a drive out of the city so we were picked up at 3am. The bus made a stop along the way at Cruz del Condor lookout where we watched the impressive gliding birds.

We set off down into the Canyon along a steep rocky path. The lunch stop at a strange touristy oasis was well deserved. Alpaca meat was on the menu and I can report it tastes like mild lamb.

We then hiked a bit up and along the base of the canyon to our nights accommodation at a cute homestay.

The owners seemed very embarrassed that they had put us in the matrimony suite.

Another 3:30am wake up, starting in the dark up the switch back to get us out of the canyon. While I appreciated missing the heat of the day I would’ve preferred at least an extra 2hrs in bed. We were grateful for the moonlight and enjoyed watching the day break.

Finished the trek by 8:30am, we enjoyed breakfast in the town before departing back to Arequipa making a few tourist stops along the way. Soaking in La Calera natural hot springs did help our sore muscles.

After Tarsh’s departure I cheered myself up with a chocolate making workshop.

From Arequipa I went on a rafting trip down the Rio Chili, aptly named for the cold 9° water coming from the mountains. I was quite glad I didn’t fall in (although I did volutanrily take a quick dip). They were fun rapids ranging from grade 2 to 4.

Time to move on, I took a scenic bus trip from Arequipa to Puno.

Puno is on the edge of Lake Titicaca, considered the largest (8400 sq km) high altitude lake in the world. Sitting at 3800m there was a noticeable temperature drop which I am still experiencing in Bolivia.

I took a day trip on the lake out to Uros floating reed islands. These communities were started when incan people retreated on boats onto the lake in order to get away from violent invading tribes. The boats developed into more sophisticated islands by piling up floating reeds onto bases of tied together root structures. There are now hundreds of floating island communities with approx 20 inhabitants on each island.

While it was interesting learning about this unqiue community I always feel uncomfortable being the tourist observing people’s way of life. I am undecided whether tourism is having a negative impact or helping provide an income and preserve these communities.

Next stop on the lake was the picturesque Isla Tequile. Gorgeous vistas looking out over the lake at the snowy peaks of Bolivia.

Enjoyed a delicious almuerzo of quinoa soup, andean bread and grilled trout.

Eucalyptus trees were introduced to the island to help with corrosion but they are sucking all the water.

From Puno I caught the bus to Copacabana, also on the side of Lake Titcaca but this time in Bolivia. I stayed at this cute ecohotel with fabulous views of the lake. Spent the evening relaxing indoors with the fire on listening to the crazy wind.

Turns out those crazy winds meant I got to spend an unwanted bonus night in Copacabana. The bus to La Paz involves crossing a straight by boat and the high winds had closed the straight.

Morning scenic bus to La Paz instead, I actually got to enjoy the scenery rather than travelling the route in the dark.

From Lima, I went and collected Tarsh from the airport (yay for sister’s being reunited). We had an early morning flight to Iquitos, the largest city in the world not connected by road and an entry point to the Amazon.

Much to our surprise we landed in what is typically a hot and humid place to experience cold temperatures as a blast of Antarctica air hit Peru. We bundled up and hopped on a boat to head up the Amazon River to Tahuayo lodge to spend 8 days exploring. Located on one of the tributaries, the whole structure is built up on stilts with high thatched rooves and plenty of mosquito netting. Our favourite spot was a gorgeous hammock room overlooking the river.

The lodge is set up so you are allocated a guide to take you on different excursions each day as you wish. The day we arrived Peru was in the final of the Americas futbal cup against Brazil. Our fantastic guide Claudio was very excited and dressed up in Peruvian colours with a slightly obnoxious veuveusela. We went by boat to nearby Chino village to watch the second half of the game which was good fun. Our driver pointed out a few sloths up in the trees during our boat ride.

In the evening we went for a night walk out the back of the lodge. We saw black and brown scorpions, a porcupine up a tree and a night jar bird. No tarantulas were sited (probably a good thing, not sure I would have stayed very calm).

Our first excursion was a day walk in search of poison dart frog. On the way to the area our driver spotted two large snakes curled up in trees on the river side, rusty earth snake and south American lancehead (second most poisonous species in the Amazon).

There are yellow and red coloured poisonous dart frogs. They are about 2cm in length and like to hang out in the leaves of bromelia plants. We saw two types of the yellow ones (one species had blue feet). Our boat driver also kept appearing with frogs he had found sitting on his machette.

That evening we went canoeing on the river in the dark. Saw a common Potoo bird (similar to an owl). Claudio shared some of the myths/stories he learned growing up as well as some survival tips.

The following day we went on the zip line set up in the canopy. It was good fun and nice to get a different perspective of the forest. Saw a flock of Macaws flying overhead.

In the afternoon we took a boat trip up river and found some grey river dolphins. It was very strange to see dolphins in a river. We went for a swim in a section of the river where the grey and black water meet. We made sure that we weren’t going to be eaten by piranhas before jumping in.

The following morning we went hiking out the back of the lodge. Very boggy underfoot, nearly lost the gumboots a couple of times. The forest in this area was a lot more scraggly with new growth. This is because the area often floods in the rainy season killing of plants which regrow in the dry season. We saw owl monkeys (nocturnal and sleeping in the hollow of a tree), big lizards, ate a weird grub that tastes like nuts, a group of squirrel monkeys and white moustaches tamarins. We also saw wire tailed manakins, the male was dancing for the female trying to win her affection.

The afternoon was spent canoeing downriver. It was raining at the start making it very atmospherics but it cleared up and we saw plenty of herons, vultures and hawks on the riverside.

We got up for an early morning boat ride to spot some birds. Big flocks of colourful parrots and parakeets flew overhead. One group stopped to eat fruit in a tree.

After breakfast we travelled up river to the Amazon Research Centre to spend a few nights there. It is quieter, more remote and on the edge of a protected area of forest. There is a trail grid system set up out the back of the lodge.

In the afternoon we went for a hike in the trail grid. Spotted a caiman chilling out in the swamp.

Heard monkeys in the tree tops, bang bang bang as they try crack fruit open and then rustling of trees as they jump between branches. Our guide got very excited about the red uakari monkeys and we went running off the trail grid system in pursuit of them. They are an endangered species and one the the reasons this forest reserve was established. They are relatively large and orange coloured, referred to as the orangutans of the Amazon. We didn’t get a photo so here is one I found on google.

We chased after them off trail, weaving through vines, jumping boggy patches of ground and avoiding the spikey trees (not always successfully). I was trying not to think about the fact that this was the type place Anacondas like to inhabit. Once we got site of the money’s we realised it was not long until dark and Claudio wasn’t entirely sure where we were. Luckily we made it back to the lodge just in time for sunset.

The next day we went walking in the trail grid in search of an anaconda which had been spotted but a previous group. They tend to stay in the same spot for 3-4 weeks as they digest a kill. We found a 3-4m anaconda and got pretty close. I actually thought it was weirdly beautiful but Tarsh was a bit disgusted.

On the way back we spotted capuchin monkeys.

Over lunch we enjoyed watching the downpour from the shelter of the hammock room and ventured out on the boat in the afternoon. We watched a sloth climb into another tree for a while, they really do move ridiculously slowly. We also saw lots of nesting nocturnal birds: common potoo, great potoo, spectacled owl and two sleeping porcupines.

The following day we went on a trip to Yarina Lake in search of the Hoatzin Bird, logo of the company. It was a bit of a trudge across some more swampy land. At the lakeside we watched a pair of titi monkeys in the trees. Plenty of yellow bellied Macaws flying overhead and we were lucky enough to see a pair perched in a tree.

During our afternoon canoe trip we disembarked and got to see a group of pigmy marmosets, the smallest monkey species in the world. Also known as leoncitos (tiny lions) because they look like they have a mane.

On the boat ride back to the lodge we saw plenty of colourful butterflies including an electric blue one. We also spotted the pink river dolphin.

For our last night at the lodge we went on a final canoe trip. Very peaceful drifting along with the current trying to ignore the mosquitos. Lots of gladiator frogs, caiman and the clouds cleared so we could see the stars.

The wildlife in the jungle was more subtle than I was expecting. It is dense and rich with life but it took a few days to tune into the different sounds: learning the bird calls and detecting monkeys moving through the tree tops. There were so many shades of green and multitudes of different plants filling the niches of the ecosystem. I feel more curious after spending eight days there than before I arrived. An unforgettable experience.

We took our last day in the Amazon slow, enjoying a boat trip back to the main lodge and more hammock room time. It was quite exciting watching the live cricket scores from the world cup final.

We explored Iquitos on foot, wandering to the Plaza de Armas and enjoying a couple of Cervezas on the river side. Busy streets with lots of moto taxis, I got the impression of a falsely commercial spiritual vibe.

A couple of delayed flights got us to the city of Arequipa and the Canyon country.

Getting photos of monkeys and birds up in the trees is incredibly difficult hence I have sometimes just listed species we observed. Most of the photo credits need to go to Tarsh.

I only made two stops up the coast, Huanchaco and Mancora. I spent the majority of my time practising yoga, surfing, eating ceviche and swinging in a hammock.

Huanchaco was a small fishing village that has become a bit of a tourist spot because of it’s long surf break. There are still traditional reed fishing boats dotted along the beach and a long pier.

My hostel had a great rooftop yoga studio and you could see and hear the ocean from many balconies. A bit cold at this time of year but that means the town is relatively void of visitors.

Mancora is near the top of Peru. It was a lot warmer and the town was busier but the surf was tiny. Nice long sandy beach and more hammocks for book reading.

I’m currently in Bolivia and working on the Amazon blog post.

After spending a couple of days in Lima I caught a bus up to Huaraz. It is bustling mountain town and the place to organise hiking and mountaineering trips to the nearby Corderilla Blanca, Negra and Huayhuash.

I used colectivos to get around, they are white vans that you hail down and hop on. Full of locals, sometimes have to stand with neck bent to the side and then just signal where you want to hop off. I am strongly of the opinion that constantly being on your horn makes it loose it’s effectiveness. Saw lots of older local women dressed up in colourful skirt, cardigans and top hats. I stayed in a family run hostel. They were lovely and great at organising all my adventures.

On my first day I did a walk up to the Wilkacocha lookout. It was a hot steep climb through farmland and was rewarded with fabulous view back at the mountain range.

Laguna 69 (hehe) was a great acclimatisation walk. 5am pick up and a long bus ride out to the start if the trail. Path was well formed and plenty of switchbacks up the hills. Air felt very thin and noticed altitude making the walk harder. The laguna was amazing, definitely no colour enhancement required!

Time for the Santa Cruz trek.

Duration: 4 days

Distance: 42km

Starting elevation: 3600m

Finishing elevation: 2900m

Highest altitude: 4750m

Day 1. Another 5am pick up and long bus trip. Stopped for a photo at a view of Huasacaran, the highest peak in Peru at 6768m. The walk started at the village of Valquerie for us. We were a group of 5 and gor along really well. A young couple from Canada and 2 Israeli girls.

We spent the afternoon walking through farming villages to our first campsite. It was a luxury to only have a light day pack. The donkeys carried the rest of our gear and their hardworking minder set up and took down out tents each day. Our guide cooked delcious food. Holy shit the stars were incredible every night!

Day 2. Woken up at 6am with a hot cup of coca tea. The morning took us up and over Punta Union pass, highest point in the trek at 4750m. Arriba! Air felt a bit thin but I had no other problems. We took a long lunch lying in sun taking in the incredible jagged icy peaks surrounding us, the bright blue laguna and view down the valley. We saw a rockslide and heard a couple of cracks of avalanches. Spent the afternoon decending down to campsite. Felt ok seeping at 4300m but it was around -5° and a cold wind blowing through the campsite.

Day 3. Side trip up to a Laguna being fed by another glacier. Great view back to peak Artesonraju, claim to fame as being the Paramount pictures logo. It was sad to hear from guide how much the snow line has lifted on the surroundimg peaks. Watched a small climbing group tackling Alpamayo mountain.

In the afternoon we descended further into valley and the terrain became dustier. Noticed a few small birds and plenty of cows and horses but not much other wildlife.

Day 4. It was a short day walking through dry valley with steep rocky sides. Saw a few lizards and dragon flies. Yummy lunch at village Cashapampa before bus ride back.

Overall the trek was overwhelmingly beautiful. I felt so humbled by the tall mountain peaks. Each day we were treated to really different terrain. Although it is one of the most popular treks in the area we only crossed paths with other groups occasionally and no more than 4 or 5 groups at each campsite.

Pastoruri Glacier day trip. Bus took us up to 5080m (for reference Everest base camp is 5364m). The altitude made the 2km track to the base of glacier a challenge. Scary to learn about how fast the glaciers are shrinking. They are an important water supply to the country.

I’m now heading to the north coast in search of surf and sunshine.

The Sierra Nevada, considered to be the heart of the world by the indigenous people of the area.

A five day trek took us across farmland and into the jungle in search of Ciudad Perdida. Also known as the lost city however, it was never really lost by the indigenous people, simply no longer occupied and unknown to the Spanish.

Our adventure commenced with a thrilling 4×4 drive into the foot of the mountains to a small village camp for breakfast. From here, we continued on foot up a steep and sunny path, blessed with spectacular views. I loved watching the hard working clipper ants scurry across the path. The jungle feels so vibrant and full of life. Plenty of banana trees, avocado trees and cacao plants. The cicadas here sound more like car alarms than the relatively quiet buzz of home. I kept munching on roasted cacao beans for energy. Calls of “mula” and “moto” would move down the chain so we could step to the side and let the 4 legged and 2 wheeled transportation pass. I was grateful to finally reach first camp. The camps are basic but tidy open shelters with bunk beds and hammock areas. It was clearly a long day since we were all in bed by 8pm.

Second day, another early start in hopes of reaching the ruins in the afternoon and avoiding the crowds. One of our group fell sick overnight and was sent back to Santa Marta on the back of a mule (fondly nicknamed the ambulance).

A highlight of the trek for me was learning from our two indigenous guides from the Wiwa tribe about their way of life. The track was mostly a rustic road, connecting different homes and indigenous camps. We would often have dogs following us for parts of the journey.

Stopped at what would be our camp for the night to dump our bags and grab some lunch.

Time to explore Ciudad Perdida! Gorgeous section of the trek with two river crossings before getting to the bottom of the steps. Steps, steps and more steps to reach the lost city.

Before entering the sacred site we took part in a energetic cleansing ceremony with coca leaves to clear our minds. Indigenous Tyrona people believe all problems start in the mind. Infact not just all problems, reality is crafted in the mind. My understanding was they believe it is important to clear thoughts and emotions as they arise and not hold onto them.

Ciudad Perdida is estimated to be built around 650AD by the indigenous Tayrona people. Made up of a series of stone terraces, it is thought to once be home to ~2000 people. I was impressed by its size but apparently only 10% has been uncovered. I was truly in awe.

While exploring the ancient Tayrona ruins, thunder began to roll through, the clouds decended and thick tropical rain drops began to fall. Felt well and truly cleansed by mother nature by the time we made it back to camp. There was an amazing twilight. Stars were spectacular and fireflies danced across the river bank.

Third day, most of us woke up feeling unrested. Unfortunately this camp only had hammocks to sleep. It seems the trick to avoiding a poor night sleep in a hammock is to curl up on your side rather than trying to remain on the back. Luckily it was a relatively cruisey day with only a 4hr trek back to the previous camp. There was a magical moment with a swarm of brightly coloured butterflies. We spent the afternoon drinking beers bought from the store and listening to tunes after we commendared their radio.

Fourth day. Louise and I went down for a swim in the river before breakfast which was nice and refreshing. A few of us then went for a swim at a charming waterfall post breakfast. Tried fresh cacao, the seeds which are roasted and used to make chocolate are covered in a sweet mild fruit. I enjoyed watching the sun creep into the clearing while we were there.

The group then gathered in one of the meeting huts to learn about the coming of age rituals for men and the importance behind the poporo. It is a meditative stick all men carry around and use as often as they can. The poporo is used to put thoughts and feelings into motion, allowing them to bring awareness and process them as they arise. It is a form of journalling. The core is made from dried pumpkin which is filled with ground shells sourced from the beaches of Tyrona. They use a stick to dip into the shell dust. While chewing coca leaf, they suck on the stick and then trace lines around the core. This delightful shell dust, coca leaf and spit concoction builds up a hard disc around the pumpkin husk. The shell dust helps to enhance the effect of the coca leaf which they chew for vitality. Coca leaf is sacred to indigenous people. Only women are permitted to collect it but typically only the men chew it. The women have a similar process weaving mochila bags. The men carry around their coca leaf stash in these bags. If they cross paths with another, they will exchange coca leaves as a form of greeting.

Sweaty afternoon hike back over to the final camp. Treated to a gorgeous sunset and a language lesson around the fire.

Fifth day. Rough walk over steep farmland. I was glad to not be amongst the many people with bad blisters. Finally, we reached the Gotsezhi village and were able to take off our boots. One last swim at another waterfall.

Learnt from the women of the village about how they make the mochilas, which have become a symbol of Colombia. They serve a similar purpose to the women as the poporo does to the men, weaving their thoughts into the bags like a diary.

We had a closing leaving ceremony with one of their spiritual leaders. He gave us all a white bracelet to signify leaving behind any negative experiences of the trek and not carrying them with us (apparently didn’t work to dispel stomach bugs). Presence seems to be a big theme in my travels.

Another hair raising 4×4 ride back to Santa Marta. Fair well dinner, sadly it was the last night in the company of some of the girls I’ve had the pleasure to spend the last few weeks travelling with.

What made the Ciudad Perdida trek so challenging was the humidity. I don’t think I’ve ever sweated so consistently in my entire life. It is ~30° at a high humidity, and when you trek for 4-8hrs a day over rough terrain it really wipes you out. Luckily there are showers at each campsite but we did not smell great by day 5 (on day 1 for that matter).

Time for some well deserved R&R in Tyrona National Park. I tagged along with my new friend Bonnie to these gorgeous ecohabs at the edge of the park. We spent a couple of days reading by the pool and catching up on sleep. We ventured into the park one day to walk through some more jungle and to swim some carribean beaches. Most of the beaches are not safe for swimming but La Piscina was great. The beaches are characterised by big boulders and jungle up to the edge (watch out for falling coconuts and mangoes).

Next stop was Minca, a small town in the Sierra Nevada mountains with plenty of coffee plantations. I stayed at this gorgeous eco hostel on a permaculture farm. Perched on the hillside, it was ideal for bird watching and catching the sunset from a hammock. They cooked up delicious vegetarian meals. I spent many hours watching brightly coloured butterflies, tropical birds, hummingbirds feeding on the flowers and think I caught site of a toucan.

Time for me to leave Colombia and head for Peru. Survived the humidity, let’s see how I fair at altitude.